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Snorkeling over Sand

At first glance, there don't seem to be many sea shells around the Hawaiian Islands. Visitors from the Pacific coast of North America probably are accustomed to an abundance of shells littering the beach and an abundance of live sea snails in and near the water, from rocks in Puget Sound covered with elegant frilled dogwinkles and leafy hornmouths to the steep windward shores of Catalina Island covered with large wavy tops and Kiner's whelks. The visitor from the East coast will find that Hawaii is not a Pacific version of Sanibel Island. Except for periwinkles, clusters of black nerites, and scattered Hawaiian limpets (opihi), the sea snails of the Hawaiian Islands tend to be either out of sight or so well camouflaged that they might as well be. The snorkeler searching the rocky shores or reefs for the first time looking for sea snails probably will be disappointed.

I recall , for example, a boatload of snorkelers dumped from a catamaran into one of my favorite coves for sea snails on the west coast of Maui. After about twenty minutes of exploring, several of them came over to me and complained that there was nothing to see; they had expected to find sea shells everywhere. In addition to an amazing array of tropical marine fish, the cove had large numbers of cones, including spiteful cones and golden-yellow cones, both of which seem to be abundant on rocks and reefs throughout the main Hawaiian Islands, plus a large, local population of penniform cones and an abundance of small snails such as horns, miters, whelks and turrids.

The problem is that any newcomer will require time to learn where to look and, more important, what to look for. To see through the camouflage of sea snails, the snorkeler must develop search images, some sort of mental templates that are tested against the underwater scene and, in response to one of the many similar and seemingly shapeless lumps, trigger the messeage "hey, there's a shell." In the same cove that seemed so bare to the snorkelers from the boat, I saw another snorkeler bring up a giant triton's trumpet from a depth of about six feet. Once its cryptic coating of wildlife was removed, the shell was beautiful. In spite of its size, none of us who frequented the cove had seen it before, and many of us undoubtedly had looked right at it. We had not developed a search image for the triton's trumpet.

For the visiting snorkeler who wants to find some sea snails in Hawaiian waters but does not have time to develop a large repertoire of search images, and for the local resident who is a newcomer to searching for sea snails, I recommend the bare white sand. There are many experienced divers and snorkelers who will tell you that an open, sandy bottom is not the place to look for fascinating sea life. I used to be one of them. Fortunately for me, the graduate student of a neurobiology colleague at UC Irvine happened to be from Hawaii and educated me on the point just before I left for the Islands on my first sabbatical leave. In the years that have passed since that time, the bare white sand, not only in Hawaii but in many other places, has provided some of my most interesting snorkeling. What can one find in the sand? Part of the answer is that, usually, the sea snails that you find will be clean (without the calcareous algae and other extraneous material that obscures the shapes and color patterns of shells found on underwater rocks and reefs). The rest of the answer depends very much on where in the Islands you are snorkeling. The answer I shall give you in this essay applies to the beaches along the southwest corner of Haleakala (Maui). You can have the pleasure of discovering the answer for your own beach.

Close to shore, in water knee-deep and clouded with sand stirred by the surf, a gleaminmg dark object about one inch long appears through the haze. If you are alert and quick, you may snatch it as it rides past in the eddies of the surf. Open your hand and you will see the inconstant auger, a pretty relative of the cone, with a slender, sharp-pointed, glossy shell. Pressing your facemask close to the bottom, you may see these animals working with the currents and the sandy bottom. At least in the gentle waves in which I have watched them, inconstant augers do not drift far before they settle to the bottom and begin to burrow into the sand, their shells aligning with the current so that the sharp tips point downstream and the rounded front ends face the brunt of the flow. Each of these augers possesses a large foot that presumably helps anchor the animal against the currents. It has been suggested that the animal also uses the foot as a sail in the eddies of the surf as it moves about foraging for food (small polychaete worms).

The foraging journeys of another snail, the hectic auger, carry it beyond the edge of the water, where it occasionally is found cast by the surf onto the wet sand of the beach. Watching the hectic auger resist the waves as they wash over it, one can propose candidate adaptive values (selective advantages) for its slender, tapered shape and its extraordinarily large foot. The streamlining and anchoring that they provide may well allow the animal to exploit a domain that is inaccessible to its competitors. On the other hand, the presence of shell collectors and other predators patrolling the beaches suggests selective disadvantages to this mode of operation as well. I have yet to find a hectic auger that still has an unbroken apex (sharp tip) on its shell, and what remains of the tip always seem to be scoured, perhaps reflecting the rigors of life at the surfline and, possibly, some interesting mode of action involving the tip of the shell. I do not recall ever seeing a living inconstant auger with a broken or scoured tip. All of the hectic augers that I have seen on our white-sand Maui beaches seem to have changed their color pattern abrubtly as they grew. The earliest, unscoured whorls have extensive, rich-brown markings on a creamy-white background (creamy-white also being the color of the scoured shell). The next few whorls are predominantly creamy-white, with small flecks of rich-brown; and the last whorl or two is pure creamy white. Camouflage is one possible adaptive value of a creamy-white shell on white sand, but what might the advantages of the brown markings be (or have been to the younger animal)?

There are other beautiful augers to be seen, but many of them are in slightly deeper water and buried in the sand. In the morning, before the tradewinds have begun to stir the sea and make the inshore water cloudy, as you snorkel out from shore into water about six to ten feet deep, you will see long tracks in the sand, as if someone had come out ahead of you and run her littlest finger along the bottom. At one end of each track you should see a small mound, and beneath the mound you should find a lanced auger, or a pencilled auger, or Verreaux's auger, or any of several other surprises. Although it seems to be more abundant in slightly deeper water, a flea cone might be lurking beneath one of the mounds. In the process of digging up one of these cones, at least one snorkeler has been stung on the hand. Although the pain in that case was not severe and disappeared in about thirty minutes, there remains the possibility that another victim might be more sensitive and suffer more serious consequnces. Therefore, you might consider using a heavy glove (I do not believe that the standard cotton diving glove would block the tooth of a cone) or a small seive or diver's catch bag to sift through the mounds of sand. If you come up with a cone, remember to handle it by the large end. You also should remember that its proboscis (carrying its stinging tooth) has a long reach. If I carry a cone without a catch bag, I keep my eye on it constantly. Even a catch bag with a metal ring and handle is kept at arms length when there are cones aboard.

Snorkeling into deeper water, ten to twenty feet, you will find larger tracks, as if the snorkeler ahead of you had run her index finger through the sand. In the mounds here you will find the larger, Gould's auger. Often at these depths, sometimes in even shallower water, you will encounter large schools of goatfish (weke), swimming along the bottom with their barbels, or whiskers, touching the sand and evidently serving as sensors as the fish search for food. Occasionally you will see a spotted Eagle Ray winging its way past as though it were a large underwater bird. Another bird-like fish to look for here is the flying gurnard. Resting on the sand with its blunt nose and tapered body, this fish looks somewhat like a large version of the little blennies that are common in Hawaiian tidepools. Closer inspection reveals enormous pectoral fins (forefins), folded over the sides of the body like Count Dracula's cape. If you disturb the fish, as it swims away from you its cape becomes a pair of large wings on which it will glide back to the sand, not far away. It is interesting to contemplate the possible adaptive value of those wing-like fins. The flying gurnard is not a member of the flying fish family, and evidently does not glide in the air above the water's surface.

An animal you are much more likely to see is the lizardfish, although you may have to look carefully because this fish often is buried literally up to its eyeballs in the sand, waiting in ambush for prey. When resting on the surface of the sand, it is lizard-like indeed-- in its shape, its scaly appearance and its posture, alert and propped on its pectoral fins.

Now push on until the water is between twenty and thirty feet deep. Here you will begin to see large star-shaped patterns in the sand, a few large mounds of sand, some small tracks, and some very big tracks. If you are up to the dive to the bottom, you will find a huge starfish (possibly of the genus Luidia) beneath the star-shaped pattern, perhaps a tiny octopus (sand octopus) in the center of a large mound, a flea cone at one end of a small track, and a marlin-spike auger at one end of a large track. The flea cones often will be dragging little trailers of seaweed on the surface of the sand. The marlin-spike augers commonly will have shells with broken tips, but a few will have flawless shells with remarkably sharp crowns. It is interesting to speculate about the activities or circumstanes that lead to seaweed trailers or broken shells in the middle of this sandy expanse. Regarding the latter, one must remember that large waves will stir the bottom even in water this deep, and occasionally this presently peaceful place is under very heavy surf.

Probably as a consequence of such stirring of the bottom in even deeper water, the usual home of the Kona crab, after a storm one may find those animals half buried in the sand in water twenty to thirty feet deep Although the legs of these crabs are too small to have much meat, their bodies are not. The meat is delicious, especially as stuffing in Maui avocados. The rear legs of the Kona crab are flat, as are those of many sand-dwelling crab species including the Dungeness crab of the North Pacific, an adaptation that suits the habitat well, allowing the animal to burrow rapidly backward into the sand. If you try to grab it as it goes, you are almost certain to be left with nothing more than a handfull of sand. If you are bare-handed and unfortunate enough to get ahold of the crab, its sharp carapace almost certainly will slice your hand (unless you have happened on a crab that has recently molted).

How does one catch a Kona crab? One method is simple, but takes two snorkelers. While one dives to a position about fifteen feet ahead of the animal and holds its attention by waving his hands or otherwise looking preposterous, the other dives to the floor of the sea about twenty five feet directly behind the crab. The diver behind the crab carries a standard diver's catch bag with its heavy wire ring wide open, forming a device that looks like a butterfly net without a handle. This diver swims slowly along the bottom toward the crab and then thrusts the ring of the catch bag deep into the sand directly behind the crab. More times than not, the crab will burrow right into the catch bag. It is interesting to contemplate the possibility that the Kona crab has an attention that one is able to hold. What does that imply about its nervous system? I don't believe the answer lies merely in the visual field at the level of the compound eye.

Pushing on to water between thirty and forty feet deep, you will continue to find mounds, stars, and marlin-spike augers, but you occasionally will find large spindles. If you plan to free dive (dive without SCUBA gear) in water this deep, I have three suggestions for you. First, do not hyperventilate before you descend. Although hyperventilation may reduce the urge to breath, it is very dangerous. After hyperventilating, some divers have passed out as they started their descents (as a consequence of a sudden, reflexive drop in blood pressure), and others (fooled by the lack of carbon-dioxide stimulus) have overstayed their oxygen reserves and passed out before ascending. It is best to avoid hyperventilation and to dive within your own comfortable breath-holding capacity. My second suggestion applies to old-fashioned face-plate style masks. If you use such a mask, be sure to keep it pressurized as you descend; blow a little air into it through your nose. Otherwise the mask will compress and the glass plate may push against your nose hard enough to start a nosebleed. My third suggestion is to plan a slow ascent. If you exhaust your breath-holding capacity at the bottom, then rush for the surface, the rapid change in (thoracic) pressure may produce short-term arrhythmia (erratic beating) of the heart. Even if you are not an avid diver, if you are in good health and, like the farmer lifting the calf each day as it grows, you have snorkeled and dived in deeper and deeper water, spending a few days with the smaller augers, a few more with Gould's augers, and so on, then you soon may be up to diving for spindles.

The last adventure over the sand that I want to relate is at the forty to fifty foot level. Here, on a calm day, the bottom will be clearly visible, but the small tracks and snails will be too far away to be seen easily from the surface. If you look carefully, among the scattered pebbles of coral on the bottom you may see an oak cone. In fact you may see several, because these large cones tend to congregate on the surface of the sand. By this time, you may have begun to wonder why different species seem to favor different water depths on the bare white sand. This zonation effect is not as strict as it may seem; oak cones and marlin-spike augers, for example, occasionally move into shallow water (a bit more than knee deep), and the inconstant auger sometimes is found in the calmer water behind the surf. Nevertheless, there do seem to be strong tendencies to divide the turf. This may have to do with the locations of different food sources (which merely pushes the question of "why" to another trophic level), or it may be a result of various adaptations of form among the sea snails of the sandy bottom, allowing each of them to operate most effectively at depths with a particular (normal) degree of wave action, or (most likely) it may be the result of a set of interesting circumstances that will provide enjoyable research for a future investigator and surprises for the rest of us.

On my favorite Maui beaches, if you have reached water forty to fifty feet deep, you are approximately 500 yards from shore. Snorkeling along the surface, seemingly able to see forever in every direction, one feels suspended in space, drifting over a quiet world of bluish water, sand, and scattered small, deep (patch) reefs. If one puts on SCUBA gear and descends to the bottom, this feeling of suspension disappears; the sand and reefs close in, and the awareness of the expanse of water above is attenuated. Nevertheless, for most of us mortals, SCUBA is the only way to explore the bottom beyond these depths.

Essay written in 1985
Last updated 07/31/07